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CITIES
ICA
- Ica
- Paracas: Between The Desert and
The Sea
- Paracas National Reserve
- Nazca: The Age-Old Mystery of The
Lines
- Gastronomy
Ica is known as an area of sand, sea, oases and valleys.
It is the cradle of Peru's Creole culture, saints and
medicine men, where the best pisco brandy is distilled
and where religious fervor is strong in the worship
of the Señor de Luren or the Yauca shrine. The
sandy wastes of this area gave rise to major pre-Colombian
Civilizations, leaving traces that have survived the
ravages of time and wind erosion.
The city of Ica, capital of the
department of Ica, founded in 1563 by Luis Jerònimo
de Cabrera, still features superb colonial constructions
such as the Cathedral and centuries-old mansions.
The road to lca provides the traveler
with a variety of attractions. First stop along the
way is Chincha, a balmy valley that combines festivals
and tradition and is the heart of a culture forged by
the descendants of African slaves brought to work the
cotton plantations. A few kilometers further lies the
Paracas National Reserve, the only protected area in
Peru that includes a marine eco-system. One can take
boatrides, from the pier at Paracas out to the Ballestas
islands, spot sea lions, Humboldt penguins, flamingos
and sea birds.
South of the city of lca lies the Huacachina Oasis,
and a few kilometers ahead, the Nazca lines, an extraordinary
legacy bequeathed by the ancient people of the Nazca
culture. This enormous network of lines and drawings
of plants and animals covers an area of some 350 square
kms and provides an unforgettable experience for those
who fly over them.
Ica celebrates three major events:
the Wine Festival (Ica is home to many vineyards which
produce excellent wines and pisco) and the festivals
of the Señor de Luren and the Virgen del Carmen
of Chincha. This is a good time to try typical Ica dishes
and sweets, as well as to visit the town of Cachiche,
famous for its folk healers said to be able to cure
all kinds of ills.
PARACAS: BETWEEN THE DESERT
AND THE SEA
Just a few hours south from the city
of Lima, in the department of Ica, the desert and the
sea come together in spectacular fashion in Paracas.
The cliffs that fringe the beaches are teeming with
life: millions of birds that live here year-round, and
thousands of others that fly from the Northem Hemisphere
and from further south, ranging from guano birds to
Húmboldt penguins. Boats set out from the port
to tour the Ballestas Islands, giving visitors a chance
to gaze at the sea lion colonies.
One can reach the port of Punta Pejerrey,
by cars where you can look across the hillside at the
candlestick-like figure of the Candelabro, carved into
the sand with a similar technique to the Nazca Lines,
although possibly of a different origin: theories range
from pirates marking a treasure hiding place to soldiers
fighting for Latin American independence from Spain.
The road leads to the on-site museum, back on the traditional
circuit, and the ruins of the burial grounds of the
Paracas culture (700 BC), whose weaving skills have
been admired the world over. A trail leads down to a
protected bay, the natural habitat of flamingoes. These
scarlet-and-white birds inspire the colors of the Peruvian
flag, and are not to be disturbed. Further south lie
the striking Cathedral and Mendieta natural rock formations.
At sunset, the Paracas coast spins
through a range of colors, the signal for nostalgic
visitors to return to the city.
PARACAS NATIONAL
RESERVE
Paracas, wedged in the middle of the coastal desert
in the department of Ica covers an area of 335.000 hectares
and is the only national reserve that protects part
of the Peruvian sea which is chilled by the cold Humboldt
current. This unique area is home to some of the world´s
richest fishing grounds, made possible by marine upswells
that bring to the surface vast masses of plankton, a
vital food supply for hundreds of fish species.
Paracas is also home to guano-producing bird species
and large colonies of sea lions. It is a haven for dozens
of visiting migratory bird species and endangered species
such as the marine wildcat or chingungo, the Humboldt
penguin and pink flamingoes. The area also saw the rise
of the Paracas culture, a major pre- Colombian civilization
who left a legacy of superb textiles and items of pottery
whose quality continues to astound visitors.
NAZCA: THE AGE-OLD MYSTERY
OF THE LINES
 Centuries
ago, 50 square kms of desert floor were covered by vast
drawings, figures of mammals, insects and deities, just
two hours from Ica. The Nazca Lines, discovered in 1927,
are the most extraordinary legacy left by a culture
that flourished in 300 BC. These lines are a series
of complex designs up to 300 meters (984 feet) long
which can only be seen in their true dimension at an
altitude of at least 1500 feet.
The Nazca culture is believed to
be incapable of manned flight. Still the question remains
as to how they crafted the drawings, what technology
they used, and what purpose the lines served. Theories
abound regarding these mysterious etchings, ranging
from landing strips for aliens to a giant seismograph.
The most probable theory is that of María Reiche,
a German researcher who dedicated her life to studying
the lines. Ms Reiche believed that the lines were part
of a vast astronomic calendar whose figures marked different
solar phases. Ms Reiche. affectionately nicknamed the
Angel of the Plains by the local inhabitants. was the
first to discover the ancient technique of digging into
the tough and dry desert floor and covering the track
with stones brought from distant sites. The component
of natural plaster existing in the area helped to preserve
the drawings for thousands of years. The hummingbird,
the spider. the condor and the monkey, are among the
more than 30 figures etched into the plain.
 The
Nazca Plains (four areas in total: Palpa, Ingenio, Nazca
and Socos) lie in the department of Ica, some 460 km
(285 miles) south of Lima. The lines that decorate the
desert floor like an embroidery of the gods have been
declared a Mankind Heritage Site by UNESCO and the ancient
mystery of the figures still waits to be unraveled.
GASTRONOMY
Sopa seca. Noodles
with shredded chicken, seasoned with annatto, parsley
and basil. Served as an accompaniment to carapulcra.
Carapulcra. Stew
made of freeze –drie potato and pork, with annato,
dried aji chilli pepper and ground peanuts.
Guiso de palllares verdes.
A spicy stew of green lima beans with milk. Egg and
chisse.
Tejas. Small sweets
made of nuts, sweet black bean paste, grape jelly, chirimoya
pste and other seasonal fruits.
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CESAR P. RIOS